September 10, 2011
There’s a spot on the ground in the British Airways terminal of London Heathrow airport where the words “keep waiting” are written in dark red ink.
It is not the advice of the airline, which is so keen to give instruction — no liquids, stand here, etc. (as a side note, the security line is one of those rare places where the ‘No Shoes, No Service’ rule is inverted as such at LAX: “Take off your shoes, or we will assume you have a bomb in them.”) — but rather, those two words, “keep waiting,” are the scrawl of another wise, rather Stoic airline customer, who realized that there is no other choice — when your flight has been canceled, when you are a stranger in a strange land, when you need a hotel and a flight and all you have is an invalid boarding pass — but to play by the rules and keep waiting.
The spot is on a white tile, in Zone G, on the third story of Terminal 5, Heathrow Airport, London, England, the World, the Milky Way, the Universe… etc. — is it permissible to use et cetera after the Universe?
I spent a great portion of a day last week in Terminal 5: the mammoth structure of reinforced steel and unnecessary glass represented the beginning of my travel’s abroad, the first European ground that my feet had ever touched, and the romantic hope that all traveler’s and human being’s vainly attach themselves to, that there is better than here. [Vainly, and perhaps wrongly, as John Darnielle beautifully illustrates in The Mountain Goats’ series of ‘Going to…’ songs.]
I was willing to indulge in this notion, despite the fact that I recently read Sam Shepard’s Curse of the Starving Class, which has an insight that is mundane but elusive: wherever you are, wherever you run to, wherever you travel, you’re there.
* * *
I left San Jose, pale and gray, in the middle of the day, headed for Bonn, Germany.
My parents dropped me off at the airport, cried, and then returned back to our home, with its new porch and old dog, surrounded by our neighbors, who I had breakfasted [I’m already in the habit of the German past tense, which often takes the form of ge-stem-t, or gefrühstückt for ‘ate breakfast’] with the day before, and perhaps took a long, contemplative look at our cuckoo clock, a consumer relic from the black forest, and the only thing in our house, apart from our ancestors’ genetic material, that is remotely German. Cuckoo! Cuckoo! Po-te-weet!
I’m not sure if it even makes sound anymore.
And then my mind shifted into a terrible mode brought about by modern air travel, and mode that exists in between California and Germany, in between vacation and school, or, as the old man in the most terrible Indiana Jones movie to date says, I was in the space between spaces [This is Crystal Skull, of course. Does that old man have a name? Probably.].
I became the sort of person that motivation speakers and postmodern faux-losophers diametrically despise, insofar as I was neither carpe-ing the diem nor enjoying the present moment. I was thinking only of the arrival and not of the journey. I fly to get somewhere, just as I often eat to fill up and run to slim down. In the terminal or in the sky, I feel like I am absolutely nowhere — the whole science of flying is an absolute mystery to me, so, just as I close my eyes when I start a car, to the keep the magic magical, I stumble and murmur through the experience of flying as if my eyes were shut, letting the security lines and 747’s and complimentary soft drinks act as an otherworldly vessel, and when I metaphorically open my eyes, I am here, at the place that was once there, and thus the former here that I had escaped becomes the there that I’m slowly, unconsciously pursuing.
* * *
I looked out the window of the plane, but couldn’t tell that it was 6:30 in the morning, or 10:30 in the evening.
It depended on if you were like me, and had already twisted your watch to agree with Big Ben, or if you were one to imagine oneself constantly in Los Angeles until the moment the wheels smack against the ground in “London” Heathrow Airport.
I hadn’t slept at all, but I had finished Prosper Mérimée’s novella, Carmen, and, whether by coincidence or because I am so apt to see my life reflected in great works of literature, I was seated next to a subtle, flirtatious French girl — a year or two younger than I — who, continuously throughout our flight, fell asleep on my shoulder, woke up to apologize, repositioned her strange, two-headed stuffed-animal pillow, and then fell asleep on me again.
It was at this time in the morning — equally evening and morning, or perhaps equally neither — that I noticed that she and I were wearing the same style of red Converse shoes, hers new and laced loosely, but with a double-knot, and mine, not actually old, but certainly pale and faded, tied extremely tightly and tapping nervously, anxiously. It was, however, just a coincidence, and it turned out to be the only thing that we had in common, while we had many divergences: she liked to watch videos on her iPod, while I liked to play music; she was able to consume the ‘roast beef’ that we were served, while I was hardly able to look at it; she liked to own great works of literature, and I liked to read them.
And it was with her desperate, silly head rested upon my shoulder, with the chair of the person in front of me leaned back into my face, with the map on the wall displaying our plane inching ever-forward over Ontario, with our plane propelling itself at six hundred miles per hour, and somehow constantly at a steady altitude of thirty-six thousand feet, with a man playing Tetris a row in front of me and a woman complaining about her broken arm rest behind me, with three hundred people around me, asleep and dreaming or awake and dreaming, that I missed my home, my family, my friends, the ground, a pair of pants I’d left behind, and especially, my girlfriend, whose head, covered with flaxen hair [There’s no better way to describe hair you love than to declare it flaxen, after all — even if it’s technically not blonde.], I would have given anything to have resting upon my shoulder in place of the French traveler who, for that night, called it home.
* * *
Three hundred people cannot escape a plane as quickly as they’d like to.
None of them can stand the in between. The flight attendants demand that we do not unbuckle our seat belts until the Captain has turned off the sign, but we all unbuckle them despite that, because the Captain and the flight attendants don’t understand us, because our notion of the ‘in between’ is their home, and our home, likewise, their ‘in between.’
And I did eventually disembark from the plane, and with barely enough time to change terminals and get on another plane from London to Düsseldorf, but it turns out that the thirty-six minutes that I spent in a hurry were — is this situational irony, or just frustrating coincidence? — an absolute waste, because all flights from Heathrow were grounded due to snow, which is the British word for “the inadequate distribution of runway cleaning resources.”
To bring this to a quick conclusion, which is the fortunate ability of a writer discussing a past that took altogether too long in the present, I waited and waited and waited at Heathrow, for a new flight, for a bottle of water, for my luggage, and for a hotel, a hotel that was not in London, but rather in Reading, which broke my heart, because I spent 24 hours in a city where my girlfriend was studying, but did not see her for a moment, could not hug her or kiss her or run my hand through that flaxen hair, [Very much akin, I think, to landing on the moon and watching the movie Apollo 13 in the rocket, and then returning home; or, more reasonably, like the time I was within a thousand feet of Times Square on New Year’s Eve but watched the festivities on a television].
And I thought about this as I slept under a desk in a hotel room, and as I was driven back to Heathrow airport by a very skilled man who could play games on his iPhone while driving, and as I boarded the plane and flew away, to Germany, and when I landed, I thought again of that tile, in Heathrow Airport, that asked me to ‘keep waiting,’ and it’s good and needed advice when you’re frustrated in an airport, but as I wait to see the person that I love again, I don’t need to be told to keep waiting, because I’d wait forever even with just the vain hope of a chance of a possibility — but fortunately, I also have a plane ticket to London in a few weeks.
‘Til then.